Well Hello Again MS Members
The Yamaha RD - 350 has long been a passion for thousands for true blooded bikers in India. In this review, rather than talking about the greatness of this really powerful steed, I will rather try to point out some hints which would enable you to make a good buy if this is you want in life.
But hey remember - the RD350 is a old spoilt bitch - and needs a lot of those notes from your wallet. Though I have some experience with this machine, I have included more thorough information from a website that I recently came across.
Now that you have opted to seat yourself on the most coveted throne of all, just make sure you check out all the points below before you actually purchase.
How does the bike ride?
Check that it goes straight and the chassis is undamaged. Also check that it does in fact have six gears (and not five – it's happened more than once!) Work the brakes, they should be effective – liners are hard to find. Remember, no two RDs are alike. Find one which has a broad spread of power. Many bikes make usable power only in certain rpm ranges, which can be a handful in urban traffic.
Are all the documents in place?
See that the bike has complete papers – registration, insurance, road tax, PUC – before you hand over the money. RDs see many owners (and thieves!), so papers can be less than perfect. Bikes older than 15 years now need a Fitness Certificate (renewal of the RC for a further five years).
Are the fork-tubes scratched?
Heavy scratching tends to rip up oil seals and generate gunk, besides repetitive, painful maintenance.
Is the oil-pump in use?
Ideally, it should be. However, RDs run just as happily on premix, in which case check if the defunct oil-pump is mounted or not – you should get one with the bike regardless.
Is the foot-peg welded on?
If yes, the bike has fallen. Be careful.
Are there dents on the muffler pipes?
There is no way to remove these dents. Your bike will never be immaculate. They are also hard to find replacements for. Also check for heavy rust on the inside where the pipe is exposed to gunk thrown up by the tyre. But experienced mechies can make beautiful and really power delivering exhaust chambers for you.
the rear shock absorber leaking?
Bullet units, with a length-extending ring welded on, are the only other ones you can go for in this case.
How are the mudguards?
Metal replacements can be difficult to locate since this old lady went out of production decades ago, though some mechanics have fibre-glass mouldings. Front mudguard can be replaced with the chrome unit from the Rajdoot 175.
Are the indicators original?
There is little chance of this. RX100 indicator lenses are a direct fit.
Is the tank rusted on the inside?
Excessive rust can cause fuel leaks and foul the carburettors. Also check for hard-to-get-rid-of dents and dings.
Are the side-panels cracked?
Side-panels should be in good nick, replacements are very hard to find.
Does the engine emit odd noises?
Hissing noises indicate an engine losing compression via the rings – may have even seized partially. A heavy grinding sound is the sign of a crank that will soon need attention. Ideally, take someone experienced along, so that he can identify bearing and piston noises. Most RDs run with less than perfect sound, but avoid bikes with excessive noise. An engine rebuild will set you back by Rs 10,000 to Rs 15,000.
Do the gears shift positively?
Gearbox should shift without any false neutrals. Shifter dogs are hard to find and a good gearbox is critical. Clutch plates are expensive but available. Check the wear on the chain and sprocket. If they need to be replaced, do so as a set. The Bullet's chain can be used.
Is the bike running points or CDI?
Points work best for performance, but beware of dime-a-dozen duplicate points. CDIs are less maintenance-heavy, though. RX, Shogun and KB units are known to be in use, but effectiveness varies. Several people make decent CDI kits, although it necessitates an upgrade to a Bullet regulator-rectifier for decent lighting.
Is the air-filter intact?
RDs use paper filters, if a foam unit is in place see that the bike performs adequately with it. Ensure that the cover for the air filter is present.
Is the battery in good condition?
If the battery is old, reduce the asking price by Rs 1000 for a replacement. Also inspect the wiring – one area where RDs usually give their age away.
Is this information enough? Do you still want to go for the RD 350? If you are, then I am impressed. But hey...the effort and money is really worth it.
The Common modifications you could make on this bike are:
Non-stock handlebars/clip-ons
Shorter bars will make the RD steer better at speed, though it compromises riding comfort and low-speed agility. Clip-ons can be painful if you fall and they come/break off. You can ride to a mechanic with bent bars, but not with a broken clip-on.
Expansion chambers
Need to be precisely designed and executed, and therefore can make or break performance. Proton is a known name, though many mechanics in the South make decent home-made chambers. Compare with a stock RD to evaluate.
Disc brakes
Should be on the front hub!
Most common is an Enfield Fury unit. Check for leaks around the master cylinder. The system needs to be air-tight for effectiveness. Handle brake fluid carefully.
Tyres
CBZ-spec 100/90-18 rear tyre on stock rim. Works well.
Custom body panels
Just ensure it matches your tastes.
If you want to do something really more than this - then go get DC.