The animals at the 777 sq km Periyar Tiger Reserve get drunk very often. Not many sanctuaries have a 26 sq km watering hole. In that sense, Periyar is unique with a meandering lake at its heart. Did you say ''Lakes don't meander, rivers do?'' Well, Periyar lake is different. Thanks to its unique shape, the lake penetrates deep into the woods and plays bartender to a large population of elephants, antelopes, primates, wild boars, tigers and many others.
Location
Nestled in the high ranges of the Western Ghats, Periyar Tiger Reserve lies in southern Kerala. The tiny hamlet of Thekkady is the gateway to the reserve.
How to Reach
If you're flying in, the nearest airport is Madurai (140 km) in neighbouring TamilNadu. However, since there are not many flights operating to Madurai, you could come to Kochi (Cochin) which is 200 km away. In any case, if you're coming to Periyar, you'd definitely want to spend some time in and around Cochin. Make sure you have a window seat. Peep down as your plane prepares to land and you'll be treated to the sight of backwaters & mushroomlike coconut trees congregated in a seaside conference.
If trains fascinate you, you could come to any of the following railheads:
Ernakulam: 190 km (Cochin & Ernakulam are practically the same city)
Kottayam: 114 km
Madurai: 135 km
If you're travelling from Bombay, I recommend Netravati Express on the Konkan railway route. The journey to Ernakulam will take you 26.5 hours. That sounds like a lot of time but the sights that will whiz past your window will make you sit up. The railway traverses some of the most formidable terrains. However, landslides are common along the route during the monsoons, and Konkan Railway stops operations when such an incident occurs. So if you're travelling in the rainy months, take an alternate route or take to the skies.
The last leg of your journey is on the road. You could take a bus from any of the above places or hire a car. The road meanders around the Western Ghats offering breathtaking views. The drivers in Kerala are known for their Formula One aspirations. So if you really love your heart, close your eyes, cross your fingers and sit tight. When you get a whiff of fresh cardamom, know that you are reaching your destination. But if you'd rather let your heart skip a few beats, don't close your eyes or else you'd miss the exhilarating sights of the tranquil countryside, gorgeously green forests and dizzying mountain slopes.
Where to Stay & What to Do
Well, before you decide that, ask yourself what kind of break you're looking for.
The Touristy Break
If you want to take a look around without compromising comfort, choose from a range of accommodation options in Thekkady. There are hotels for every budget (from Rs. 200 to Rs. 7000). The Taj Garden Retreat just outside the sanctuary is a good option for people seeking solitude, superb service, relaxing massages and great food.
Almost everybody who comes to Periyar does the boat cruise. You are taken around in a motorboat and if you're lucky, you might catch a fleeting glimpse of elephant herds, sambhars and barking deer. Your chances of spotting a tiger is about as thin as finding a needle in a haystack. There are less than 40 of them and they're not particularly fond of tourists. There are no jeep safaris here.
Spend a morning visiting the nearby tea and spice plantations. In the evenings, go spice shopping around the market. There are several Internet cafés in Thekkady and you can write home about your experiences or log into MS and read this review again :)
The ''Just-Chillin'' Break
If you just want to be with nature, make sure you stay inside the sanctuary boundaries. KTDC has three properties on the banks of the lake: the economical Periyar House, the mid-budget Aranya Niwas and the premium Lake Palace. The Casino Group runs a place called Spice Village (Tel: 0486-322315) just at the entrance to the reserve. This place prides itself for its lack of opulence. However, lack of opulence doesn't come cheap. The place is fairly expensive but you could check out their packages.
If the boat cruise doesn't excite you too much, go for an elephant ride through the woods. Or just sit by the lake and listen to the birds. The collective chirp is nature's most soothing music. Get kneaded in the hands (or even feet) of the master masseurs. Massage parlours have mushroomed all over the place, each claiming its authenticity. Choose carefully.
The Adventure Break
So you're adventurous, eh? Welcome to the jungle. The adventurous don't stay in airconditioned rooms. So choose between the Bamboo Grove and the Jungle Inn - both run by the local forest department (04869-222027). You could even spend a night in the Watch Tower (this is not a fancy hotel, but an actual watch tower with a machaan-like structure).
To begin with, acclimatise yourself to the ways of the jungle by going for the Nature Walk. A trained tribal guide will take you through the jungle for a walk lasting 3 hours. Your guide will sound very enthusiastic about your chances of spotting something spectacular on your walk but don't expect too much. Just ''feel'' the jungle at close quarters. Hug a tree if you want but watch out for the leeches, specially during the wet months. Wear full length jeans or trousers if you don't want the tiny Draculas to suck out a couple of litres off you.
If you like idea of spending a few hours in the deep watered Periyar lake on a few bamboo pieces held together by coir ropes, go for the Bamboo Rafting Programme. You will start at 8 in the morning, trek through the forest, ride a bamboo raft for 3 hours and come back by dusk. No, you won't have to hunt your own food. Packed food and snacks will be served.
Still thirsty for adventure? Take the Tiger Trail. You could choose between the 1 night/2 day and 2 nights/3 day treks. A team of poacher-turned-protectors would guide your team through the thick green habitat. A word of caution though. The trek tends to get quite challenging and tiring, specially in summer, and many of your romantic Frostian notions of the woods might evaporate in the hot Sun. Unlike the elephants, you won't be able to bathe and nature's green carpet will be your toilet.
When to Visit
The ''season'' is September to May. September to February is relatively cooler, while March-April is hot and dry but you stand a better chance of spotting the wild ones quenching their thirst at the lake. However, if you're the kind who steps out when it pours, June to August is the time to come. There are few tourists around, nature wears a gorgeously green trousseau and air plays magic with the heady concoction of wet jungle fragrances and spicy aroma.
The temperature ranges from 15ºC in December and January and up to 31ºC in April & May.
In Conclusion
If you're visiting Periyar in the tourist season, make your reservations well in advance. All the adventure treks are prescheduled and a fair bit of planning goes into them. You may not ''see'' a lot of wild animals at Periyar but the feel of the place is absolutely charming. For any help at the reserve, contact the wildlife information centre near the boat landing.
Needless to mention, you can pick and choose from the activities described above. After all, sometimes we are adventurers, sometimes eager tourists and sometimes absolute laggards like the sloth bears at Periyar.
