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Pune India
KERELA: HOTTER THAN THE HEAT
May 21, 2005 09:20 PM 3411 Views
(Updated May 21, 2005 09:22 PM)

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KERELA GENERAL: DOWN MEMORY LANE.


A review dedicated to my course mates from Kerela


If you arrive in Kerela and ask to go to Kochi, you will be surprised to know there be no place called Kochi out here! I am not kidding!


Kerela has beaten Goa and other places in India as the most preferred tourist destination. When I lived there, 1972-73, that was not so. Kerela was better known for Marxism, strikes, lock outs, violence, rusting industries and a laid back style of living. Of course, there was tremendous greenery all round.


ERNAKULAM/FORT KOCHI/WELLINGDON ISLAND


We were starting our Navy careers and our batch of Sub Lieutenants were destined to spend a year under training at INS Venduruthy,year 1972, located on the most beautiful Wellingdon Island. Later I had tenures from 1977-80 out here. My wife and kids loved living in this hot and humid equatorial climatic condition,


The weather was always hot and humid and during monsoons, the place was awash most days, heavy showers, followed by hot sunshine and heavy showers again. It’s pretty tough living in a hot and humid place. Your energy levels go down the drain pretty fast. Most evenings, in the Officers Mess, we drank beers, which caused dehydration and further misery.


But of course we had a terrific time.


MATTANCHERRY AND ERNAKULAM CHANNEL


The most beautiful and picturesque port in India is the Mattancherry and Ernakulam channel. It is sheer delight and pleasure navigating in and out of this channel. There are plenty of Chinese fishing nets on both sides of the channel. Small picturesque islands dot all around. Vypin Island in particular is hot with tourists for the coir handicraft products that are exported the world over. All products are made WITHOUT THE USE OF ELECTRICITY or mechanical driven devices!


Then there is the beautifully maintained Jewish synagogue, which is more than 100 years old, although all the Jews have migrated to Israel.


Fort Kochi is another great place to chill out. There are great eating places for sea food along the channel. These are open to air joints, like dhabbas, very popular with all tourists. The cooks can fix you crabs, lobsters, prawns, the local fish Kareemein. Super fish, any style you want. Kerela style or Italian style or the French way. Liquor can be had but will be served in steel glasses, cos these joints do not have liquor licensee. We always carried our own booze. After sunset, it’s a lovely to see the ships entering and leaving harbor while you eat the fish and sip your whiskey or whatever.


Ernakulam city is perhaps the richest city in India in terms of per capita income. The Gulf money pours into this city by the planeloads. They have a private International Airport near Allway. It is a beautiful airport, clean, efficient and tourist friendly. Not like Sahar in Mumbai, which is pathetic.


TRAVEL


We had many batchmates from all over Kerela. Pavithran (Pavi) from near Trivandrum, Kuruvilla from Alleppey, Giri from Thekkadey….and many more. We would just drive away on our mobikes to their homes with or without our batchmates, most times without. And we were treated royally!


Pavi’s father was a big time landlord. Four of us arrived at his picturesque village without Pavi and without any invitation or prior notice. Beautiful old style bungalow surrounded by coconut trees, rice fields and rubber plantations.


Pavi’s Dad and Mom could not speak any language other than Malyalum. We four, Ceaser, Nandu, Madhu, Prasad could speak all languages (Punjabi, Marathi, Oriya, Bengali) except Malyalum!


No problems! Pavi’s Dad and Mom treated us like Royalty!! They were thrilled that we had driven down all the way to meet them. Communications after a while was not an issue. They jabbered in Malyalum, we jabbered in English. We pretended to understand each other perfectly!


My pal Ceasar pulled out an Old Monk Rum bottle before dinner and offered Dad a drink too. Initially he was aghast, but he adjusted. He declined but no problems with us enjoying our drinks with fried fish and great Kerela food. Ceaser was a voracious eater. Pavi’s mom was a great cook.


She wept profusely when we drove off the next morning to Kovalam. She packed lots of food for us. Dad placed an envelope in my hand. I thought it was a letter for his son. Instead, what I found inside was HARD CASH!!!!!!!!!!


So as and when we got leave, we visited wild life sanctuary of Thekaady, the great rubber plantations, the tea gardens around Munnar and the backwaters of Alleppey. Most places, we had foster parents to live with, like Pavi’s parents.


MY RECCOMENDATIONS


Visit Kerela during November/December/January. Other months are bad.


Hotels and food is expensive. The tourism industry focuses on well oiled tourists with 10 credit cards and no budgets. But you will get good value for money, no matter what you end up spending.


Besides the places above, Covalum Beach, Munnar tea gardens, Thekkadey wild life parks are super super places.


If you want to suba dive, snorkel, take a trip of 3 days to Lakshadweep Islands. You can travel by the ship MV Akbar. Cheap fares.


AM GOING TO KERELA AGAIN


Just because my daughter………….that is a secret I will tell you after two months!


Adois.


Mariner2/Nandu


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