An Avian Paradise. Review on Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary

KeolaDeo National Park

This is a premier bird sanctuary located in the state of Rajasthan, within driving distance of Delhi. On the train route as well, the town is rather small and has other attractions besides being an avian paradise. We drove down from Delhi via Mathura. the road from Delhi to Mathura (130 km) is the NH4, and you pay a toll once( Rs 35). The road from Mathura to Bharatpur (34 km) is bad and full of potholes. You can do the distance in about 3-4 hours, depending upon the traffic you encounter en-route. Another choice can be via Agra and Fathehpur Sikri, the attractions at those places being also wonderful, the road being great though it adds about 60 km extra one way.

Accommodation

We had planned to stay the night so that we could catch the view of the birds in the morning, though one need not do so- you can easily make it back to Delhi if you have set off early enough. Ah yes, the time of the year is important- since the birds to really see are the migratory ones, it is ideal to be there from late Nov to early Feb. We went on 30th Dec, so one has to cater for the cold and the ever present fog- delays the road progress! We stayed at the Suraj Farms- small but clean place, it is about 2 km out of town on the Agra road. They charge 550/- for a double bed, which is cheap compared to the others since it was high season. The other hotels to explore are the Sunbird, Eagles's Nest, Pelican, Park, Park Palace etc. These private hotels range between 700-1000 for decent sized rooms. The RTDC hotels are the Saras, the Bharatpur Forest Lodge and the heritage hotel is the Laxmi Vilas Palace, which is a trifle too expensive at 5500/- , and the govt hotels are too overpriced for the services you get.

Sanctuary

The sanctuary starts off from the town itself, and one can drive about 1.5 km inside. The adults have to pay 25/- and the kids 10/-, plus 50/- for the car. If you have your video camera, prepare yourself to part with 200/-, the still cameras are free. One has to park the car at the brink of the sanctuary as the only mode to operate inside is either to hire bicycles, engage a rickshaw or walk. There is a battery bus available, but it is generally booked by the tour operators for the foreign visitors. I would suggest that you start the tour of the sanctuary by going on the boat. The timings are between 10-12 and 2-5(a two hour lunch!). A one hour trip costs you 25 per head and the min persons you have to pay for are 3. The boat man takes you so close to the roosting birds that you never stop oohing and aahing. The boat ride was perhaps the high point of the entire trip. After the boat ride, you can go along the road on the rickshaw(50/- per hour). The drivers are guides in their own right and take you to the right spots. Cycle hire (25 per hour- doubles are ok) is another way to move and so is walking. The sanctuary closes at 5 in the winters and 6 in the summers.

Birds

The local birds that you can see in abundance are the four varieties of the herons, three varieties of egrets; plenty of cormorants; painted, openbill, white necked as well as the black necked storks; white ibis; spoonbills; snake birds and plenty of ducks like the moorhens, darters, grebes etc. We were fortunate enough to see some Saras Cranes, serpent eagles, horned owls and some extra large tortoises. There are plenty of nilgai(bluebull- a type of antelope), spotted deer, hyenas and foxes that you can see.

Recommendations

Do take a pair of binoculars with you and a camera is a must. You dont get much to eat at the sanctuary, so carry your water supply and some snacks. It can get pretty cold so be adequately attired. I dont recommend staying there over night unless the Siberian Cranes are there( they werent this time). One day is enough unless you are an avid bird watcher- I get to see the similar types of birds around Delhi too, but the migratory ones are only found at Bharatpur. If you have managed to get the boat ride, hire the bicycles- you will be able to do your own thing. Go with an open mind, and must take the kids- great learning experience when you see the growing chicks. Try and combine the trip with a detour to Fatehpur Sikri- we did and really was a wise decision. Have fun!