Pardon the appetite reducing title, but it will become clearer as you read on [assuming of course, you do read on :)]. I will try and review this as dispassionately as possible, but cant help the analogies. As you might know after reading some of my reviews, I am attracted to analogies like Devils are to Angels :-) If you don’t, shame on you. Apologise to the Supreme Spooks, and go back and read my reviews lol..:-)
Back to the review.
Dhabas are as poignantly Indian as the cud chewing cow, the awesome Amma & Mamta road show and the Leg- Glance in cricket. [Great analogies :)] A dhaba is originally to be found on the highways, and every person who has travelled the length and breadth of this great land would identify with dhaba food; especially their sweet lassi and Kaali Daal with hot, tandoori roti. It is gut-wrenching hot ‘n’ spicy, it is drowning in clarified butter [ghee], and it is the most delicious food this side of the galaxy. [Memo to self: Import one dhaba here to Brissy] With their popularity, some enterprising entrepreneurs have opened up dhabas in cities; complete with the authentic touches of charpais [defies English translation...essentially a cot made of ropes…best I can do :-),a thatched roof, and huge, metal patilas [pots] of artery choking, cholesterol loaded food.
Rajinder Da Dhaba is situated in the pristine neighbourhood of Green Park in New Delhi. Now, the only thing Green in Green Park is Mrs. Joshi’s face when she sees Mrs. Arora in her new Mercedes, but that is a different story altogether [Now that was a good analogy] Unlike the suburb of Green Park, the thatched structure of Rajinder Da Dhaba is surrounded by filth. There is no other word for it. Filth. Gross, black, stinky, gooey filth. There are pigs wallowing in the mud nearby, cows all over the place, jovial dogs settling arguments by barking their heads off like Milo [a doggy acquaintance who refuses to stop barking when I am talking on the phone]...you get the whole sordid picture.
This is outside. Inside, is the domain of Rajinder Singh, or Paaji, as he is more popularly known. This dhaba is manned by Paaji and some equally burly brethren. And of course, the ubiquitous Chotus. This creature is an integral part of a dhaba, and never grows up. If you visit the place after some time, he is replaced by another version, but they all have the same function and look remarkably alike, with a torn baniyan [vest], striped shorts, and a piece of cloth slung like Sylvester Stallones’ bazooka over their shoulder. [the analogies are getting better :-)]. the service by the Chotu’s is quick, and fast. Most of the customers of Sardarji are the well heeled people of Green Park, Greater Kailash, and Panchsheel Enclave. It is not uncommon to see Mercedes and Lexus side by side with the humble Maruti and the humbler Bajaj. They all come to pay homage to the temple of Paaji, to fathom the divine secrets that he only possesses. [Sorry...got carried away...]
Paaji’s Butter chicken, and his Daal Makhani, are actually made by the Gods themselves and home delivered. The curries are swimming in butter, and of course, about 1 truckload of chillies. One bite of a hot tandoori roti dipped in the curries, and you are at peace with the world. The salads and chutney are complimentary, even if you are a greedy pig like my friend who devoured 4 plates. Follow this with sweet lassi or a cuppa tea, and you are in heaven. There is great Punjabi Bhangra music playing in the background, you are elbow deep in delicious food….what more can you want [I know, how about Sarah Michele Geller :-) heh heh] the furniture is very basic but comfortable: A few stools, some charpayis, and a few tables. The emphasis at this temple of eating is plainly on just that.
The pot that Paaji uses to make tea has been boiling since fire was invented. The tea leaves are in circulation since Paaji opened his dhaba and it is difficult to tell the insects from the tea leaves, but apart from these minor technicalities, the tea is divine. You might also feel a bit nauseous when you see the Chotu dipping the dirty cups and plates in a bucket of brackish water to “clean” them, but rest assured. You see despite the glowing picture of cleanliness that I have painted, it’s really ok. I reckon that the place is so filthy and dirty, that the most battle hardened virus and bacteria would give up the ghost here.
There is a good variety of Naan’s; the Punjabi Naan being the pick. It is filled with Spinach, nuts, and Paneer. Divine. The chaats and Samosas are very average, and I wouldn’t really recommend them. Not that I ate any, but they didn’t “look” right. There are heaps of Chicken variety, but forget about all of them and order only Butter Chicken. In the veggies, like I said, Daal Makhni and Shahi Paneer are awesome. Of course, Paaji’s, Mixed Vegetables, Dum Aalo, Palak Paneer, Saag Aalo, and the rest, are equally to die for, but for his Butter Chicken and his Daal Makhni, you can take a life.
Speaking of lives, some poor souls are being fried next door, and their stench sometimes does waft over. You see, barely 500 meters from Rajinder Da Dhaba, there is a Cremation Ground for Hindus. Sometime, just sometimes, on a busy day at office for the God of Death [Yam Raj or Grim Reaper], the glorious smell of humans frying does waft over. I can tell you it pretty much kills the appetite very quickly. And then no amount of God’s home delivered food can stop the rush to get out of the place.
All in all, the place is definitely worth a visit. The food is yummy, and very reasonable. A non-veg curry costs about Rs.25, and a veggie curry, Rs.20. The Naan’s range from Rs.4 for the basic Naan to Rs.7 for the Punjabi Naan. The tandoori roti is Rs.3, and definitely is the best buy. Officially, Booze is prohibited, but its all nudge-nudge and wink-wink. A few rupee tip to the Chotu, and the best from the Wine Shop nearby is at your table. The deserts can be given a miss. After eating the food, you will need a crane to lift you to your car anyways, and thus it is recommended you skip the desert :-) Speaking of cars, parking is not a problem, as the Dhaba is situated right next to the shopping centre. Also, as it is on the main road, many people who prefer to eat in clean surroundings, order the food, and eat it in their cars, parked by the roadside. [Don’t try and run away after eating the food, the light at the crossing after the dhaba is always red when you try this :-)…and no, I haven’t tried this, the Chotu told me when I asked him!!]
Ignore the filth, ignore the surroundings, concentrate fully on the food, and you will be happy. Take cash, as credit cards are not accepted. Having been away from India, means that the cast iron lining my stomach has eroded somewhat. You do need one to digest the heart attack inducing wholesome food. The food is incredibly delicious, but keep that bottle of Mylanta or Digene handy for next day. Best to scan the local paper for the number of deaths before going, just in case you don’t fancy fried human smell with fried food.
