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The Town So Nice They Named it Twice
Jul 20, 2004 06:57 PM 2826 Views
(Updated Aug 13, 2004 09:00 AM)

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New York, New York


I first came to Manhattan in 1974, so I'm in my 30th year of life in The City. Not that I've lived here every year since then--in the meantime I've lived in Colorado, Florida, and Ohio for short stints, but something has always called me back. I've had friends come and stay with me for a week or so, and in some cases they've wondered how I can stand to live and work in a place that is so large, busy, and expensive. I just tell them ''There is no other place. This is it.'' Yes, it's big. And yes, it's expensive. But it is the place where every nation on earth has its representatives, almost every language group and culture can be found here. While my friends complain about the expense, I just say, What do you expect for a place so rich and full of life?


Getting There


Most overseas travelers will arrive at JFK International, a sprawling complex with 9 separate terminals (see https://panynj.gov/aviation/jitcfram.htm for a map of the airport). Regardless of which terminal you fly into, you'll have the usual check-in and customs procedures which are long and tedious (though not as bad as in London or Mumbai). The easiest--and most expensive--way to get into Manhattan is by taxi, but it will cost around $40.


The second best way would be on New York Bus Service, which costs $13 to Grand Central Terminal or Penn Station, both midtown railroad stations. Your hotel will probably be within walking distance or a short taxi ride of either of these terminals. The cheapest option is the Airtrain to the E or F lines on NY's famed subway system--the Airtrain costs $5, and the subway into midtown costs $2. However, if you have a lot of bags, the transfers will be exhausting, especially after a 20-hour flight from India.


Where to Stay


There's no way around it--Manhattan hotels are very expensive. The average stay for a night now tops $300, and famed hotels such as The Waldorf-Astoria or the Carlyle will be much more. However, there are cheaper options, if you don't need luxury--NY has a number of hostels and budget hotels, some of which involve shared rooms. NY.com has a list at https://ny.com/hotels/budget.html. You will probably want to stay in Midtown, an area from 34th to 59th streets and 3rd to 9th avenues. You can find simple maps at places like https://nyctourist.com/map1.htm.


What to See


You will, of course, want to see the usual--the Empire State Building, Rockefeller Center, Fifth and Madison Avenues (the premier shopping areas), Ground Zero, and the Statue of Liberty. For the latter, if you don't feel like paying the $10 for the ferry to the Statue, you can always take the Staten Island Ferry across New York Harbor for free. It goes right by the statue (you can't get off, of course), but you will get the most spectacular views of the statue, Lower Manhattan, and Ellis Island. And it's free!


After you see the major sights, that's when you can really begin to enjoy New York. Unlike cities like Mumbai, which has a Darwinian view of street traffic--the larger vehicle has the right to run over the smaller vehicle, and everyone has the right to run over pedestrians--New York is a city that is meant to be seen on foot.


A full day can be spent just strolling around Greenwich Village (one of the oldest parts of Manhattan), shopping and stopping in at small cafes. You might want to visit the new shopping center at the Time-Warner building at 59th St. and Central Park West--probably the most chic shopping mall outside of Dubai. St. Patrick's and St. Thomas cathedrals on 5th Ave. are breathtaking, as is St. John the Divine, the largest gothic cathedral in the world (it's a bit of a hike, though, at 112th St. by Columbia University).


Central Park is not the dangerous place you've probably heard, unless you want to walk around there after dark, which I'm supposing you won't--my favorite places there are Bethesda Fountain, the Central Park Zoo, Shakespeare Garden, and of course, the Metropolitan Museum of Art, one of the world's finest (and largest) art museums. The Met alone will take at least a full day to see, if you want to do it right.


The Promenade at Battery Park City is a wonderful place to spend a couple of hours after you see Ground Zero: beautiful views of the harbor. The best thing to remember is: most New Yorkers are actually very helpful. You can just ask about places to visit, and they'll usually give you a 15-minute rundown of their favorite places, so you'll end up with more options than you can possibly fit in. One of my favorites, though out of the way, is the Cloisters on the northern part of the island--beautiful gardens and medieval galleries that can take a full, relaxing day.


Where to Eat


You can get any kind of cuisine you want in New York, at any price. Indian food is well-represented in Little India--6th St. between 1st and 2nd Aves.--there are dozens of Indian restaurants (primarily Gujarati and Punjabi, but other areas are represented, as well). There is also a smaller collection of Indian restaurants around 28th St. and Lexington Ave. Other areas: Chinatown is in Lower Manhattan, mainly on the East Side south of Canal St., and Little Italy is in the same area north of Canal. Tribeca (just north of the World Trade Center site) is the newest posh area of Manhattan, with many dozen fine little restaurants run by the best chefs in the city.


Cafes are a-plenty in Greenwich Village--my favorite is Caffe Reggio on Macdougal St., one of the oldest Italian cafes in NY. The Old Town Tavern on east 18th is one of the oldest bars/taverns in the city, and has a great selection of libations. Then, of course, there are the famous places--Tavern on the Green (expensive and overrated), Gramercy Tavern, Bouley, Danielle, etc.--a meal at most of these will cost well over $100/person. Me, I can find great food for a fraction of that. Again, NY.com can help you out there: https://ny.com/dining/cuisine.view/.


Safety Issues


A lot of visitors have heard that New York is dangerous. Well, it isn't. No, you won't want to walk around the South Bronx or Flatbush Avenue in the middle of the night, but for the average tourist, there is nothing to worry about. The places you'll be visiting are all safe, well-lit, and crowded enough that you don't need to fret. There is a fine bus system all over Manhattan if the subway frightens you (see the site https://mta.nyc.ny.us for transportation maps and information). Take the usual precautions--a money belt is a good idea, and you probably don't want to walk around with a lot of expensive jewelry on, but otherwise, relax!


Final Thoughts


This is just the briefest introduction to my New York. Over the years, I've discovered more and more little places that I love, but the main thing I love about Manhattan is the energy, the sense that it truly is the Center of the World. There is probably some truth to the adage that if you don't love New York at first sight, it probably won't grow on you. But for me, I can't get it out of my system, and wherever I travel in the world, I know that I will always return here. It's home; it's where my heart is.


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