Aug 28, 2001 07:14 AM
1745 Views
We stopped at Palm Springs, California, the first time we visited the States. It was our second port of call on a West Coast tour, starting in Las Vegas, and ending in L.A and San Francisco.
Palm Springs is a great place for those who enjoy extremes. You are in the middle of a valley on the dry side of the mountains, pure clean air and a peaceful place to relax and take in the scenery.
After starting out at Las Vegas, Palm Springs seemed on a completely different planet though. No rash of a billion neon lights here. Much more restrained – Vegas might be a ‘painted lady’, but Palm Springs is more an ‘educated spinster’.
After the drive through the mountains, we arrived in the valley that surrounds the resorts in the Palm Springs area. The sun was out and the temperature was up - mid 80s. It was Summer time and the locals were all cocooned in their air conditioned homes or sitting by their sumptuous pools.
We only stayed in a humble Howard Johnson at the bottom end of the Town, but that was still pretty spacious and was surrounded by other similar touristy accomodation like Days Inn, Econolodge etc. The plusher hotels are spread around the resort areas – not like a Las Vegas where they are mainly together.
That first night they held an open air market/craft fair/carnival. It seemed completely at odds with what we expected in a chic and reputedly sophisticated place like this. But it was very nice in an American cutesy kind of way. A couple of bands played, kids were manning stalls selling popcorn, all kinds of candy (‘sweets’ to us Brits) and it was a tremendous atmosphere – primarily put on, I expect, for the tourists.
We ate in a restaurant in the centre of town, which was lively - a young rock band were playing while the diners outside on the patio enjoyed the food and the warm night air.
The next day we took a trip up on the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway. It was just fantastic and one of the highlights of any visit to the area. It’s ‘just’ a 9,000 foot ascent to the top of Mount San Jacinto and a great chance to reach the top of a mountain and enjoy the spectacular views of the scenery below.
The next day was spent lounging by the pool, enjoying the restful atmosphere. That is what Palm Springs is about. However, another good place to visit – and one sadly we had no time to discover for ourselves - is the Living Desert zoo. It is not a zoo in the way we would regard one, but more like a Safari Park set in a desert. All manner of creatures, in their natural habitat and definitely a far cry from the norm of a ‘zoo’. Plus, of course the chance to witness at first hand all kinds of rare desert plantlife and cactii.
No account of this area would be complete with a mention of the Golf courses. It is a veritable Golfer’s paradise. This is one of the things that attracted the celebrities who came a-calling from the 1930s onwards. There are plenty – and I mean PLENTY - of courses in the area. Palm Springs is just one resort in the Palm Desert area, including beautifully named Indian Wells, Mission Hills, Cathedral City - all housing superb courses to every level.
Finally - Nightlife - there is some - for the over 70s! Just as an example - One of the stars performing in town that week was Donald O’Connor. Never heard of him? Well you’d have to be pretty ancient to remember that he was Gene Kelly’s sidekick in ‘Singin in the Rain’. Clubbing Ibiza-style, nope…this IS Palm Springs!
A lot of movie stars used to retire to Palm Springs and it probably hasn't changed much since the 1930s. A lovely peaceful place - have I used that word before, a clean and very much ‘middle class’ resort. None of your roughnecks or lager louts are tolerated here I’m rather glad to say. We left after a couple of days and journeyed on to L.A - looking back on a place that time and tourists had hardly altered.
