Honeymooner's Paradise. Review on Brunton Boatyard, Cochin

I visited Cochin (sorry, I like the old name much better than the new--Kochi sounds to me like someone sneezing) last November, during the mini-monsoon. It was hot and humid, but I was taken by the ancient Portuguese dwellings and churches, and soothed by the slow lifestyle around the Fort area. It was a welcome respite from the craziness of Mumbai.

I had spent a few days in the mountains at Spice Village, a Casino Group hotel, and part of my package was to spend a night at the Brunton Boatyard in Cochin before flying back to Mumbai. I loved Spice Village--a cluster of thatch-roofed cottages set among native flowers and trees, the only noise being the squawking of the guinea hens that infested the place. No TV, just long evenings on the verandah of my cottage, gazing at the brilliant colors of the remarkable Keralan sunsets (and, I might add, dining on the tasty, fresh, coconut and seafood-based Keralan cuisine--it ought to be included by nutritionists as a Basic Food Group).

The Casino Group is onto a good thing. Rather than building opulent, gold-leafed palaces like the Taj Group, they have decided rather to go with a simple, unadorned aesthetic, all clay tile, whitewashed walls, and dark rough-hewn wood. The effect is very pleasing and calming, and among the hotels I've visited in India, I'd have to say their offerings are the most agreeable, from a standpoint of sheer relaxation. However, the austerity of Spice Village in no way prepared me for the faux-historical grandeur of the Brunton Boatyard (https://casinogroup.com/brunton_home.htm).

Entering Brunton Boatyard is like coming into some exclusive retreat or millionaire's mansion--we drove through huge gates into a cobblestone courtyard, surrounded on all sides by white walls and lush vegetation. The hotel itself is like a colonial plantation house--the lobby is a huge, two-story gallery with a carved wooden ceiling and period furniture (the Portuguese colonial period, that is), and built around a second courtyard planted with bougainvillea and other tropicals.

However, even the tasteful elegance of the surroundings didn't prepare me for Room 202 (I know, this is starting to sound like The Shining, but rest assured, there were no blood-filled elevators). The bellhop opened the finely-carved door and I looked around what seemed to be another lobby area, then glanced into the bedroom thinking--wow, this isn't very large.

Then it hit me--the lobby area is part of the suite. And what a suite it was! Huge arched windows led onto a large balcony overlooking Cochin Bay and the ferry landing. I stood there watching as large freighters and sailboats passed within a few hundred yards of my perch, the sun glinting on the water. I'd never before (and haven't since) stayed in a place with such a luxury of space--the suite was far larger than my apartment back in New York!

I wasn't crazy about the furniture in the living room, a sort of Keralan Danish modern, but it was comfortable, and there was a large dining area and well-stocked pantry. The bathroom was also huge, with old-seeming glazed white tile and a separate balcony overlooking the ferry landing. The bedroom was exceedingly comfortable with a giant four-poster bed and period armoire that looked like they came from the era of Vasco de Gama.

Brunton Boatyard is in a great location--equidistant from Jew Town and the Fort area, so it is a nice stroll to either location. The main shopping streets are only a couple of blocks away, and such attractions as the Chinese fishing nets and St. Francis Church are nearby. There are only 22 rooms, but since the rooms are all large, the hotel itself seems gigantic. Two restaurants, the History Cafe and the Armoury are excellent.

The Armoury is where you will most likely have breakfast and lunch, with Indian specialties, sandwiches, and lighter fare. You can also order drinks or teas from the bar and have them sent to you at the pool or porch overlooking the bay. The History Cafe is the more formal restaurant on the upper level and features a large verandah overlooking the bay--it specializes in Keralan and other Southeastern Asian seafood delicacies. I had prawn curry while a roaming pair of musicians played guitar and sang Beatles and Simon & Garfunkel songs.

Of course, the large spaces and numerous amenities come at a price--my suite was $249/night (about Rs. 11,000), and the meals are a bit pricey, as well--my dinner tab was over Rs. 2000 (including wine). Still, I can think of few better places for a romantic weekend or honeymoon than Brunton Boatyard. After all, everyone needs to be treated like royalty once in awhile--just tell the in-laws that they'll have to spring for it, or the wedding's off.